Walking back in time at Bagamoyo

Monday, 26 September 2011 08:07 Kenan Kalagho

Much has been written about Bagamoyo as an Arab slave trading post and transit port for slaves to the Zanzibar slave market. I had the privilege to travel to this historic place that lies 72 kilometers along the northern coast of Dar es salaam city. The township of Bagamoyo itself dates back to slavery period and was Tanganyika colony's German capital.
It took me one and a half hours on commuter setting off from Dar es Salaam at 9: 00 am for a one and a half hours journey.

(Some of the old buildings as seen in Bagamoyo Photos by Kenan Kalagho)
A return bus ticket from  from Dar es Salaam costs the equivalent of US $3.
I was part of a group of friends, early  September as we were given a ride by a friend who owns a tour company .
Together with my colleague Anna Sombida and others, we couldn't help to take this chance of visiting this ancient township especially considering that it was going to be the first time to set my foot on this historic land.
Relics of this history town of of Bagamoyo show clearly the influence by the Arabs and Indian traders, the German colonial government and Christian missionaries who lived in Bagamoyo during the slave period, thus many of its buildings are as old as the slave period itself.
Perhaps none other than the Roman Catholic Church museum have had a well recorded history about this rich relic place and that was the reason I chose the  Roman Catholic Church museum to be my first place .
I love history and especially knowing about how people of this land endured the past life which has much led to determine the present and future life. What one sees in Bagamoyo makes ones' eyes to well with tears, because it reminds the visitor about the hardships and tales of African slavery and the inhuman experiences they endured.

(Tourists walk past some of the old buildings as seen in Bagamoyoas Bertha Francis expalins to them about the old history of Bagamoyo Photos by Kenan Kalagho)
The horrific sights, remains of the torturous life of this country's poor souls - men, women, and children - and Congolese victims are a stark reminder of the ugly side of slave trade. A number of old historical buildings still carry with them the marks of slave trade and Arabs slave traders. This makes tourists from all walks of life to descend here to see and hear about the tales of this historical town.
I saw a number of European tourists and others from around Africa while at the Roman Catholic Museum signing in the guests' registration book and praising the Church Museum for its good preservation of the historical equipment and ancient utensils which no longer exist today.
At the Church Museum, I read and saw photographs of Bagamoyo under Arabs slave traders, German and British colonial eras.
Each of these periods carry with them different outlooks, yet much of its history comes back to life in the remains of the old structures that are still standing albeit in state of dilapidation and other colonial equipments preserved at the Church Museum.
It is these old buildings that make Bagamoyo township, an ideal destination  for one looking for artiacts and archaeology.

(one anongst the the old buildings as seen in Bagamoyo Photos by Kenan Kalagho)

Some renowned relics are the photographs of missionaries such as the British explorer Dr David Livingston and Henry Morton Stanley and those of Arab slave traders and that of Maria Ernestina who is recorded as being the last slave in the annals of Bagamoyo.
 Many of the old buildings in the streets of Bagamoyo are being left to tumble down and be forgotten.
I walked around and saw among others, old dilapidated buildings of Bagamoyo town including the first residence of the German colonial governor that are not just historical  treasures, but also the wealth that keeps tourists flocking to Bagamoyo.
 It leaves one to wonder if the Tanzania Government appreciates the history and old treasures in Bagamoyo.
There are few old historical buildings that stand strong to this day like the old fort built by Arabs and Germans in 1860, yet the most famous of all, the Old Port that used to assemble before loading slaves into dhows for the Zanzibar slave market.
They stand as ruins although part of the building is being used by the Customs Department and houses the offices of the Tanzania Ports Authority.
There are several residential buildings with very unique old structural designs that are also left to collapse and fall apart, with very little hope of being renovated while some are being put on sale.
Seeing these collapsed old historical buildings that hold the history of Bagamoyo being left in sorry state I had only one option - left to "lay down my heart"  as well which is exactly what Bagamoyo itself means from the Kiswahili words 'bwaga moyo'..
Will these ancient buildings be ever renovated, otherwise there will no foreign to come and see the historical wealth of the place?
I asked my friend Bertha Francis my tour guide working with the office of the Conservation and Antiquities in Dar es Salaam who is also a student of the University of Dar es salaam who assured me that the office of Conservation and Antiquities in Dar es Salaam is working hard with other agencies to revitalize this old town and maintain dozens of ruins in and around Bagamoyo and "We have started with the old Boma," she said.
"But how long will it take for us to see at least a quarter of these old buildings which are in very bad shape being renovated?" wondered Ms Francis as she led us down to beach to see other building such as the ancient port house where slaves were loaded in dhows before being taken across to the slave market.
"The problem is that the law of conservation and antiquities permits these buildings to undergo renovation if the old structure will be retained and that the exercise costs a huge fortune."
The old slave port house is still being used to date despite being left in ruins with no renovation being made to it.

(one of the remnant of the old buildnings in Bagamoyo, such buildings needs renovation in order to protect them from collapsing Photos by Kenan Kalagho)

We saw several drug addicts seated at each corner of this huge building which gave us the impression that soon this place could turn into a robbers' den.
Most European tourists who come to visit these old buildings wonder how blessed Tanzania is with these natural resources yet, but wondered why the Government doesn't use the relics to their full potential.
However Ms. Francis said the state of the old buildings was dangerous: "You cannot guide a tourist inside a building which is about to fall down," stressed Ms Francis, adding that "if such buildings can be renovated we can then open up other new attraction places to tourists and the Government can benefit from tourists."
"Just last week I was walking German tourists who were shocked to see the dilapidation of some of famous old buildings like the old port which they thought were fine pieces if only they were renovated. They thought such renovation could lead to Bagamoyo becoming one of the greatest attractions in East Africa especially considering its history", she says.
Tanzania has a tradition of pulling down old structures.
That could be reason why several old buildings are put on sale even at this time when the old slave port town is being considered as one of the world wonders, these old structures are not really supposed to be pulled down, neglected or even being put for sale.
Sadly a similar approach is being witnessed in Dar Salaam city where some old buildings are being put out for sale and wiping out history.
"We really need to start giving these buildings their priority because besides bringing in foreign exchange and being a great attraction to tourists, they are also a source of employment and make us to know and record the country's history," she emphasized.
It was sad leaving Bagamoyo without a visit to the Kaole ruins, an ancient Arab citadel near Bagamoyo.
 I however promised myself to be back. As I started back home, the memories about slavery kept disturbing my mind and I couldn't help to shed tears.